Tahukah Anda kalau parfum berasal dari Mesir, bukan dari Paris, negara pusat mode dunia seperti yang diperkirakan orang selama ini? Ya, memang benar demikian. Saat itu, di Mesir, wewangian digunakan untuk berbagai keperluan ritual mulai dari melahirkan sampai ke upacara kematian. Dupa dan kayu manis dibuat sebagai bahan dasar yang diolah dengan cara digiling, diparut dan ditumbuk. Setelah halus, hasilnya pun siap ditaburkan.
Ada pula bagian tumbuhan yang dibuat ekstraknya, seperti kelopak bunga, buah, akar, kulit kayu, bahkan batang kayu itu sendiri. Seiring berjalannya waktu, proses pun berkembang. Dari sekedar ditaburkan, bahan-bahan dasar tadi mulai diubah bentuk menjadi dupa yang dibakar kemudian menghasilkan asap yang siap menebar aroma harum.
Setelah itu, barulah proses pembuatan parfum kian maju dengan adanya proses distilasi, yaitu mengambil wewangian melalui uap air dalam proses penyulingan. Setelah itu, barulah hasil penyulingan disempurnakan dan diolah menjadi berbagai jenis campuran essence dan kadar alkohol, di mana setiap jenisnya memiliki ketajaman aroma yang berbeda-beda.
EDC, EDT, EDP Perfume, What’s The Difference?
• Eau de Cologne (EDC)
Ini merupakan jenis wewangian paling ringan. Itu karena kadar alkoholnya paling tinggi dan hanya terdapat sekitar 5 persen campuran essence. Tidak heran kalau wanginya pun cepat menguap. Namun, meski tergolong ringan, cologne tetap banyak dipilih karena terkenal memiliki aroma yang dapat menyegarkan tubuh hingga 2-3 jam. Cocok digunakan sehabis mandi seperti body spray dan body splash.
• Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Wewangian ini satu tingkat lebih tinggi di atas cologne. Kadar alkoholnya juga tinggi, walaupun tidak setinggi cologne, sementara kadar essence-nya hanya berkisar 12 persen. Bila ingin mencari kesegaran yang bisa bertahan cukup lama, jenis wewangian ini merupakan pilihan yang paling ideal, karena aromanya ringan, tidak terlalu tajam serta awet hingga 3-4 jam, cocok untuk segala suasana.
• Eau de Perfume (EDP)
Wanginya cukup tahan lama hingga 4-6 jam. Jenis wewangian yang satu ini memiliki kadar alkohol sedikit sementara kadar essence-nya berkisar 15 hingga 22 persen. Oleh sebab itu, aroma wanginya cukup kuat dan tahan lama sehingga lebih sesuai digunakan di malam hari, terutama untuk menghadiri acara formal.
• Perfume
Dari semua jenis wewangian, ini dia yang paling awet dan bisa bertahan hingga 6-12 jam. Kadar aromanya mencapai 22 persen dan asli tanpa campuran alkohol. Tidak perlu terlalu banyak memakai jenis wewangian ini karena wanginya sudah bisa tercium dari jarak yang cukup jauh.
Parfum dan Kepribadian Anda.
Memilih parfum memang gampang-gampang susah, karena setiap wewangian yang dihasilkan terdiri dari berbagai campuran aroma, bahkan lebih. Masing-masing aroma bisa diperoleh secara alami (diekstraksi dari alam) maupun buatan (sintetis). Tak hanya itu, kepribadian pun juga berpengaruh pada pilihan parfum yang tepat untuk kita. Nah, yang manakah aroma yang mewakili kepribadian Anda di antara pilihan berikut ini?
FLORAL
Aroma yang berasal dari wangi bunga-bungaan seperti mawar, anggrek dan melati. Cocok untuk Anda yang berkepribadian feminin dan romantis.
CHYPRE
Aroma ini merupakan gabungan antara bargamot, oakmoss, dan labdanum. Karakteristik wewangiannya ditandai oleh aroma apricot dan custard yang sangat khas, bila dalam Bahasa Prancis lebih dikenal dengan cyprus. Parfum ini lebih cocok digunakan bagi pria lembut dan romantis dalam suasana dingin atau malam hari.
FRESH FRUITS
Terdiri dari aroma tumbuhan dan buah yang menyegarkan seperti citrus, orange, limes, dan grapefruit. Jika Anda temasuk orang yang dinamis, aktif dan suka beraktivitas di luar, tidak salah kalau Anda memilih aroma fresh fruit sebagai parfum Anda.
AMBERS
Aroma ambers merupakan campuran dari vanilla, bunga-bungaan, wood, dicampur dengan minyak camphorous. Jenis aroma yang satu ini dapat membawa pikiran maupun mood Anda ke suasana oriental yang eksotis. Parfum ini cocok bagi Anda yang romantis, namun ingin terkesan misterius dan maskulin.
CITRUS
Karakteristik utama citrus adalah aromanya yang menyegarkan dan langsung tercium begitu disemprotkan. Aroma ini berasal dari jeruk dan sejenisnya seperti lemon, tangerine, clementine dan grapefruits. Kebanyakan aroma citrus digunakan untuk jenis parfum eau de teoilette. Bagi Anda yang aktif, sporty, lively, dan berkepribadian ekstrovert, aroma jenis ini merupakan teman yang tepat untuk menemani aktivitas olahraga Anda.
FOUGERE
Dengan campuran dasar lavender, coumarin, dan oakmoss, aroma fougere biasanya ditandai oleh perpaduan wangi rempah bercampur aroma wood. Termasuk dalam aroma parfum yang memerlukan waktu untuk beradaptasi dengan kondisi tubuh. Untuk Anda yang ambisius, classy, namun sedikit konvensial. Wewangian lembut ini bisa jadi pilihan untuk menenangkan pikiran Anda.
WOODY
Wewangian ini didominasi oleh aroma kayu khasa di kepulauan Pasifik Selatan yang ciri khasnya ditandai oleh aroma sandalwood dan cedar. Bagi Anda, yang suka berpetualang, independen dan menyukai tantangan, wewangian ini akan sangat cocok menemani hari-hari Anda.
Bagaimana, sudahkah mengenakan parfum hari ini untuk menambah PD (Percaya Diri) Anda?
sumber: rangkuman dr berbagai sumber..
geocities.com/JIMparfum
Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, by accords, or gender of these fragrances.
MEN
Aquatic
Aromatic notes are mainly composed of sage, rosemary, thyme and lavender usually complemented with citrus and spicy notes. These compositions' manly character makes them an all-time favorite in men's perfumery.
Citrus
This family includes all perfumes mainly composed of citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit. These fragrances are characterized by their freshness and lightness. The first Eaux de Cologne belong to this category. The masculine character comes from the frequently strong presence of aromatic and spicy notes.
Oriental
Refreshed by aromatic or citrus facets, oriental compositions draw their richness and sophistication from precious substances such as amber, resin, tobacco, spices, exotic woods and animal notes.
Woody
These perfumes, with their woody middle note, are warm and opulent when based on sandalwood or patchouli. Cedar and vetiver make them dryer. These warm, dry and elegant masculine accords often contain a dash of citrus or aromatic notes.
WOMEN
Chypre
Chypre by Coty enjoyed such success in 1917 that "chypre" is now a generic name for a whole category of timeless, classic perfumes. The compositions are based on oak moss, ciste-labdanum, patchouli and bergamot accords. The richness of chypre notes mixes wonderfully with fruity or floral notes. This family is made up of distinguished, instantly recognizable fragrances.
Citrus
Each perfume in this family is primarily composed of citrus scents such as bergamot, lemon, orange, tangerine and grapefruit, to which other orange-tree elements (orange blossoms, petit grain or neroli oil) have been added. Floral or even chypre accords are sometimes present as well. These perfumes are characterized by their freshness and lightness including the first "Eaux de Cologne".
Floral
This family is composed of a large variety of creations ranging from sumptuous bouquet arrangements to "soli flora" compositions. Perfumers can let their creativity run wild, enriching florals with green, aldehydic, fruity or spicy hints. With its natural scent, the floral note is one of the most widely used in women's perfumes.
Oriental
Orientals -- also known as 'amber' fragrances - stand out because of their unique blend of warmth and sensuality. They draw their richness from heady substances like musk, vanilla and precious woods, often associated with exotic floral and spicy scents.
Fragrances Notes
A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics. On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours. The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification.
Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume. Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume. The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly. Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes.
Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate. The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded." Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume. Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes. Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes.
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume. Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes. The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down. Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes.
Concentration and Composition
Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of a perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable. This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing.
Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water. The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:
Perfume extract: 20-40% aromatic compounds ( 6-12 hours or more )
Perfume is the most highly concentrated form of fragrance, containing between 20% and 50% perfume compound. The strongest and the longest-lasting option, it’s also the most expensive.
Eau De Perfume: 10-30% aromatic compounds ( 3-6 hours or more )
Eau de perfume is an alcoholic perfume solution containing 10% to 15% perfume compound.
Eau De Toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds ( 2-4 hours or more )
Eau de toilette is an alcohol- or water-based perfume solution containing 3% to 8% perfume compound. Less concentrated than eau de parfum, it’s often used to create a lighter version of a fragrance.
Eau De Cologne: 2-3 % aromatic compounds ( 1-2 hours or more )
Eau de cologne is a solution of about 3% perfume compound in an alcohol-water base. It’s invariably much lighter than a concentrated perfume. Men’s cologne, typically with 5% to 8% perfume compound, is more concentrated than women’s and is similar to the strength of eau de toilette (see below).
Scented products: less than 3 % aromatic compounds
Scented products like: Lotions, creams, powders, body splashes, aftershaves, soaps, and other scented cosmetic products contain variable (though usually very small) amounts of fragrance — often less than 3%.
As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease. It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes. As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses.
To complicate matters more, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only different in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether. For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes.
In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord. An instance of this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée.
Testers are the REAL THING
>> the original fragrance / perfume, but without the retail packaging / seal.
Some testers may come packaged in a plain white or brown box and with or without a cap. Some testers may have "Tester" or "Demonstration" written on the bottle, and are mostly used in retail stores to support clients in the shopping process.
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